The set is made of MDF (medium density fibreboard) and pine. MDF is an inexpensive and great material to use if you are finishing your project with paint, especially along the edges. However, it's important to avoid breathing in MDF dust, so have the panels cut to size by the supplier; They'll have table saws with the proper dust-extraction equipment. Then all you need is a cordless drill with a Speedbor, countersinking bits, a jigsaw and a few common household tools.

Gather your supplies

Chairs

• A Chair base/seat (8) 300 x 300 x 18mm MDF
  B Long box sides (8) 300 x 195 x 18mm MDF
  C Short box sides (8) 264 x 195 x 18mm MDF
  D Long chair back (4) 318 x 420 x 18mm MDF
  E Short chair back (4) 300 x 420 x 18mm MDF
  FSeat locators (8) 40 x 19 x 256mm pine

Table

• G Table legs (2) 650 x 500 x 18mm MDF
  H Tabletop 650 x 650 x 18mm MDF
  I Table edging (4) 42 x 19 x 688mm pine
  J Feet (4) 42 x 19 x 130mm pink
  K Leg edging (4) 42 x 19 x 496mm pine

You'll also need
PVA; 70mm rubber tyre castors; PlastiBond or similar; prepcoat/sealer; paint

Notes
To prevent splitting the MDF, all joints are glued and screwed after predrilling clearance, pilot and countersink holes.

STEP 1 If you are cutting the components yourself, use a power saw along a straightedge, preferably working outside and wearing safety gear. Mark the thickness of the box sides on the base (A) and on the long box side (B). Add 2 screw holes on the sides and 2 on each side of the base. Make sure screw holes are no closer than 40mm from the corners.

STEP 2 Drill a 5mm clearance hole at each mark, then flip the board over to countersink the hole so the screw heads will finish well below the surface of the panels. Apply glue, bring the long sides against the short box sides (C), make sure they are square, then predrill with a 4rnm bit. Drive in 2 screws Repeat the procedure for the whole box. Add the base.

STEP 3 Use a 20-cent coin to trace a curve on the front corner of each chair back (D.E) and cut with a jigsaw. Screw the 2 backs to the comer of the box. Use a Speedbor to drill a 25mm hole in the centre of the seat, boring halfway through, then drilling from the back Fix the 2 locators (F) to the underside, about 22mm in from all sides to allow a little play to fit the seat.

STEP 4 To make the table legs (G), measure 9mm to each side of the centre of the long edges and square lines across the board. Find the half-way mark, then cut the slots with a jigsaw guided by a straightedge. Check the legs interlock firmly. Find the centre of each side of the tabletop (H) and align a leg with the marks. Glue and screw the tabletop in place.

STEP 5 Cut a 45° mitre at the ends of the table edges (I) and glue and screw to the tabletop after predrilling. Make sure the top surfaces are flush. Invert the table and fix the feet (J) to the bottom of the legs, cutting a small angle on the ends of the feet, just for interest. Then add the table leg edging (K) to the sides of the table legs.

STEP 6 At this stage, mix 2 parts of a hard filler (such as PlastiBond) together to fill all screw holes and any gaps. This material goes off very quickly and does not shrink, so you can sand and paint within the hour. Sand the entire unit. Give special attention to rounding the edges and corners, which can be sharp and dangerous.

STEP 7 Paint the whole unit with prepcoat to seal the MDF and pine so they have the same rates of absorption for even gloss levels. Then paint all exteriors white (Antique White USA). Mask around the edges of the chairs and paint them We used the gelato colours Dulux Chenille, Naked Light. Swedish Yellow and Ice Pack.

STEP 8 Remove the tape as soon as the painting is finished so it is easy to remove and you can touch up any blemishes. Once all the painting is complete and dry, fit the castors to each corner of the chairs, fitting them as close to the edge as possible. Don't forget to predrill wherever you are screwing into end-grain. Use button-head screws.


Source: Better Homes and Gardens March 2005