What Scares a Big Wave Surfer?

December 2, 2010, 3:26 pm Gill Dear Yahoo!7

As one of the pioneers of big wave surfing, Australia’s Ross Clarke-Jones is one of the most fearless guys around. So if a 60ft wave doesn’t scare him, then what does? While en route to 'The Eddie', I caught up with Ross at the Red Bull HQ in Sydney to find out – and it’s probably not what you’re expecting.

What Scares a Big Wave Surfer?
Surf

Ross Clarke-Jones has cleared his diary, rented a house on the North Shore of Oahu, Hawaii and is waiting for ‘the call’. He’s joined by 27 other premier surfers who have been invited to enter ‘The 26th Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau’ (The Eddie), the most prestigious big wave surfing event in the world.

Ross goes for it at The Eddie in 2009.

They might be waiting for a while - The Eddie can take place any time from 1 Dec to 28 Feb. All eyes will be glued to the swell charts, waiting and watching for a 20ft+ swell to arrive from the Pacific Northwest to Waimea. But these days, there probably won’t even be ‘the call’ – a few days out, there’s a flurry of talk, texts and emails flying around town as everyone can see the giant swell developing online. Then Quiksilver sends the official press release – The Eddie Is On.

Big Wave Surf Gallery: Ross at The Eddie
Banzai fans chat with Ross:

How does it feel to drop onto a big wave? What would you be doing if not surfing? How often do you 'eat it'? One spot you can't get enough of?

“I want to win it. I’ve dedicated my life to it.”

Each year, Ross moves his life to Hawaii for at least 3 months, chasing his dream to win The Eddie. The euphoric taste of victory was his in January 2001, but he wants it again. He’ll be riding the same board he’s ridden for the past 15 years at Waimea - 10 ft long, 20 inches wide, 3 inches thick. A big wave needs a big board.

This year, Ross is in the best shape both physically and mentally that he’s ever been in, and he’s ready.

‘I don’t NEED it like it’s the end of my life but I’d love it. I can do a lot more with it. I’d share the money with the local Hawaiians and feed them all – spend the whole $50,000 on a big pig.’

If it’s true that the way to a man’s heart is through his belly, Clarke-Jones just won the support of many locals.

Ross is ready to win.

No Guts, No Glory

In the past, the winner was whoever successfully rode a wave from the deepest position. But last year a guy went straight down on a massive wave and got 20/20 – despite crashing. As Clarke-Jones says,

“They want it for the crowd and the crowd goes wild. It’s Gladiatorial. You just go for it.”

In this sport, there is no room for hesitation. It’s about commitment, timing, being in the right position – and of course, having the guts (or insanity) to stand up to a thunderous wave that might suck you 10m deep for what seems like an eternity.

Dropping off a monster wave and getting buried by a wall of whitewash would scare the bejesus out of most people. If this is all in a day’s work for Ross, then what does scare him?

‘Brazilian women’ he says.

Ross’s two ex-wives are Brazilian.

Big Wave Contest Cancelled due to Big Waves

Trawling through the history of the Quiksilver Eddie Aikau reveals some interesting facts:

  • Though many have come close, no one has ever won The Eddie twice.
  • 1997/98 the event was ironically cancelled due to ‘big waves’. Ross was the only guy to accept his singlet that year, yet it would have taken a chopper to get him on one of the monster waves.
  • Eddie Aikau devoted his life to big wave surfing and was the first official lifeguard of Waimea, Hawaii. His life was lost when he attempted to paddle 19 miles to shore to save the lives of those left on a capsized boat during a storm. He was never seen again, but his legacy lives on.
  • Kelly Slater won it in January 2002, further proving himself as the greatest surfer of all time.

GALLERY: Top 10 biggest waves in the world

Training - Blue Crush style?

Do you remember the scene in Blue Crush where the girls are running underwater with a big boulder to practice holding their breath? Ross did that once – only for the camera! Reckons it doesn’t help that much, except to train your brain what it feels like to be trapped underwater. Then, when it happens for real, you can relax – and survive.

His REAL training (besides surfing a hell of a lot around Victoria and WA) kicks off around 5.30am each day, and involves mountain bike riding, cross training, cardio work and boxing. While he doesn’t really watch his diet, he’s learning the importance of eating better food to help rejuvenate his body after the pounding it cops in the surf every day.

With all this training, Ross has never felt so stable and ready for the The Eddie. So, who’s going to win it this year, Ross?

“Me.”

Australia will be cheering for you Ross – as will the hungry Hawaiians.

''Follow all the action of The 26th Quiksilver In Memory of Eddie Aikau at the
official website''.

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5 Comments

  1. David and Renee02:16pm Sunday 05th December 2010 ESTReport Abuse

    What a life, living the dream, its not about the money, love it! Good luck. Yahoo7 delete the one posting adverts!!!! You seem to choose what is said on political stories, why are you letting them through. There are enough ads chewing up my data allowance on you page as it is.

    Reply
  2. BJ11:53am Sunday 05th December 2010 ESTReport Abuse

    Kelly Slater is not the best surfer of all time, he may have one the comp's but Laird Hamilton is the best surfer of OUR TIME.

    1 Reply
  3. Darren11:46am Sunday 05th December 2010 ESTReport Abuse

    go hard or go home.

    Reply
  4. Mike D01:50pm Friday 03rd December 2010 ESTReport Abuse

    haha i wondered if anyone actually did that boulder thing!

    Reply
  5. Boris11:20am Friday 03rd December 2010 ESTReport Abuse

    Great article! Good luck at the Eddie Ross... and stick to the Aussie chicks!!

    Reply
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