Keep crockery close at hand with an easy-to-build shelf.

This handy shelf can be whipped up in just a few hours. And, while it's designed for the kitchen, it would be equally at home in an office or laundry.

You'll need (for shelf fixed at 600mm centres)

Item and Part Sizes (actual) Material
A Slats (8) 30 x 19 x 900mm DAR oregon
B Bracket arms (4) 66 x 19 x 288mm DAR oregon
C Braces (2) 41 x 19 288mm DAR oregon
D Rod 10mm dia x 600mm Hardwood
 
Note
30 x 19mm DAR (dressed all round) timber is sold as 38 x 25mm; 66mm x 19mm is sold as 75 x 25mm; and 41 x 19mm is sold as 50 x 25mm, which are the original sizes before dressing.

Here's how
Step 1 Decide where you want to fit the shelf, then use a stud finder to locate the vertical frame members (studs) behind the plasterboard. The stud centres give the distance between the centres of the two wall brackets. The shelf pictured was fixed to studs spaced at 600mm centres, the other common spacing being 450mm. If you skip a stud you can fix brackets at 900mm centres for a longer shelf, but use thicker timber for slats spanning more than 900mm.

Step 2 The length of the slats equals the stud centre spacing plus 150mm each end. Before cutting them to length, use a square to square a line across the surface, down the sides and across the bottom, slightly in from one end. Cut the surface fibres of the wood by running a utility knife along a steel rule. This will minimise splintering. Now cut with a tenon saw on the waste side of the line. To help get a straight cut, use a wooden mitre box with the saw. The cut end should be square. Measure out the slat length, square across the timber and cut as before.

Step 3 Cut bracket arms. Clamp timber in a vice, lining jaws with felt or similar so timber isn't bruised. Produce 5mm chamfer on sides and bottom of outside end of each arm with a plane. To avoid splintering, work towards centre of each edge. At the same time, plane slight chamfer on slat ends.

Step 4 Measure length of braces and use mitre box to cut opposite 45 degree angles at each end. Find Centre of one brace between sides and midpoint between ends. Put braces back to back, and use combination square to transfer midpoint to other brace. Drill 10mm dia x 10mm-deep holes where lines cross.

Step 5 Place two bracket arms chamfer-side down. From other end, measure 10mm and 12mm infrom sides. Drill 6 x 3mm-deep holes, then 4mm clearance holes. Hold a nondrilled bracket arm upright in a vice, align the drilled arm and drill 2mm pilot holes through clearance holes. Use PVA glue and 50mm screws to join the two arms. Repeat for other bracket.

Step 6 From outside corner of bracket, measure 175mm along both arms and drill 4mm clearance holes in centre. Measure 204mm from inside corner of each arm on both brackets. Apply glue, centre brace on arms and align with marks. Screw on from back.

Step 7 Cut dowel for rod the same length as stud centre spacing, 600mm in this case. Sand all pieces with 100-120 medium-grade paper. Finish off with 180 fine-grade paper.

Step 8 Stain all components with a half-strength Golden Oak stain mixed with mineral turpentine. Wear rubber gloves to protect your skin. After a minute or two, wipe off the excess with a dry cloth. Allow to dry.

Step 9 Measure 150mm in from both sides of each slat. Find centre and drill 4mm countersunk holes. Measure 117mm (150mm minus half the bracket width, 33mm) from each end on the underside and mark with a pencil.

Step 10 Stand the brackets with the arm that goes down the wall on the bench. Place the back slat on two 6mm spacers. Screw it to the bracket arm using the pencil marks to align it properly, Move arms apart slightly to insert the rod into the holes. Straighten up and progressively screw on the rest of the slats, using the 6mm spacers to keep the gaps even.

Step 11 Spray all over with a clear polyurethane finish such as Minwax Fast-Drying Polyurethane. This will make finishing the gaps between the slats much easier.

Step 12 Screw your new shelf to the wall in the desired position. To ensure it is well supported, screw into the frame or masonry.

Source: Better Homes and Gardens, June 2001