Even though this planter has a few curves and housings, the carpentry is not hard. LOSP pine is the ideal timber to use as it's durable and primed ready for painting. For a timber look, use Western red cedar. All joints are glued with exterior-grade adhesive and fixed with galvanised screws or nails.

As well as the timber, you will need a trough to suit the planter; 1m strip of thin plywood or a metre rule; 2 x 50mm galvanised angle brackets; paint; and cleats, if necessary, for packing the trough.

Gather your supplies
A Posts (2) 90 x 42 x 750mm LOSP pine
B Skids (2) 88 x 88 x 380mm LOSP pine
C Cross rails (2) 42 x 42 x 686mm LOSP pine
D Top rail 90 x 19 x 736mm LOSP pine
E Crest 90 x 42 x 840mm LOSP pine
F Crest fasciae (2) 90 x 19 x 814mm LOSP pine
G Slats (4) 140 x 19 x 463mm LOSP pine
H Rail block 42 x 42 x 125mm LOSP pine
I* Front/back panels (2) 190 x 19 x 710mm LOSP pine
J* End panels (2) 190 x 19 x 230mm LOSP pine
*Cleats (see diagram) may be needed to support planters or troughs if they are smaller than the opening, or adjust the sizes of front, back and end panels to suit plastic troughs.

Here's how
Step 1 Clamp the posts (A) together face side up. From the bottom, measure up 245 and 287mm, and 42 and 84mm down from the top. Square across both pieces and down the sides. From the face side, measure back 42mm to mark in the notches for the cross rails. Set a power saw to cut 42mm deep. Cut down the inside of the lines and make a series of parallel cuts in between, or use a handsaw. Knock out the waste with a chisel and clean up the housing.

Step 2 In the same way, form a 90 x 42mm housing on the outside back of each skid (B). On the front side of the skid, measure 42mm up and back from the bottom edge, draw in the triangle and cut to form a wide chamfer at base. Glue and screw posts to skids, making sure they meet at right angles.

Step 3 Lay the posts on their backs so the outside edges are 660mm apart. Screw in place the bottom cross rail (C) so there are equal 13mm overhangs at each end. Glue and screw top rail (D) to the top of posts with equal 38mm overhangs at each end, so the posts remain parallel.

Step 4 Find the centre of the crest (E) and measure up 48mm. Drive a pin close to each top corner, then, using a thin strip of plywood or a 1m rule, bend it down to the centre mark. Draw in the curve, then cut it out with a jigsaw. Sand the curve smooth.

Step 5 Measure 10mm down each end of the crest fasciae (F), then centre the crest on the face of each fascia with the curve on the marks, and draw in the curves. This time, set your jigsaw to cut at 15 degrees to the vertical and cut the curves so the bevels will be facing out. Also, cut the ends at 15 degrees. Sand smooth, then centre and nail the fasciae to each side of the crest so the bottom edges are flush. Centre this assembly to the top rail and screw on from the underside. Add the second cross rail.

Step 6 Plane the slats (G) to a width of 136mm, then cut to length and pre-drill, ready to screw on the back of the cross rails. Place 2 of the slats 6mm apart on a bench. Using a plate about 150mm in diameter, draw a circle with its bottom edge 210mm from the bottom. Cut out the 2 semicircles. With the back of the posts facing up, measure 3mm to each side of the centre of the cross rails. Align and screw on the 2 centre slats, then the 2 outer ones, also with a 6mm gap.

Step 7 Glue the rail block (H) between the top rail and cross rails. Glue and screw the planter front and back (I) to the 2 ends (J). Add brackets to the inside corners to screw the planter assembly to the skids.

Step 8 Check the fit of the trough and add cleats inside the planter to support the lip, if necessary. You can also add a bottom to the planter so you can stand various pots inside the planter surrounds. Paint the planter with 2 coats of exterior acrylic. If using cedar, either clear coat it, stain it or let it weather naturally.

What may be quick and easy for one person may be hard for another. The important thing is to have fun making something.